Foumilayo: Receiver of joy

When placed in a village as a volunteer, Peace Corps trains an official counterpart to serve as you local guide and help acclamate you to community life in an unfamiliar environment. My counterpart's name is Foumilayo, which means “receiver of joy.” Though she has served as the “bringer” of joy to my life. She has not only guided me in my work, but she has become a good friend as well.

Few women are selected to serve as couterpart, as Peace Corps usually seeks out persons whom have attained a certain level of education. Although Foumilayo did not graduate from high school, she did earn her lower-level diploma, the BEPC, which one may consider equal to graduating after the 10th grade in the American school system.

Foumilayo is about my age, although it is difficult for me to get a straight answer from her. Many Togolese will offer 2 ages when asked: their age by birth or their school age. Like the majority of togolese students, Foumalayo had to repeat several years of schooling. However, if you continue to remain in the same grade, you can only do so up a certain age. Therefore, students often have their age reviewed or changed so that they may continue their schooling.

Foumilayo has one son, who is five years old and starting school this year. The father is unknown to me, but she has strong support from her family and a long-time boyfriend. Being a single-mother is difficult any where, but it can be particularly challenging in Togo as many woman are shamed by their family and community. Foumilayo's unique situation reflects the strength of her character, which is proved further by her efforts to improve her community. She came to be my official counterpart due to her position on the board of one of the local credit unions (a microfinance institution). She is also a volunteer with the local health committee promoted by the Red Cross.

Our work together includes my visits to her food stall every other morning in the Djama neighborhood. In my opinion, the women of her household make the best kom (fermented corn-meal patties) and sauce in all of Togo. While eating my second-breakfast, we discuss the needs of the community and life in general. Occasionally, she will refer the various visitors of her food stall to my services. Recently, she introduced to a man looking for the capital to build a hen house.
More formally, we are working with others in the community to create a professional training center. Her father, who we call Pélé since he was once a great footballer for the local team, serves as the president of our committee that is managing this project.

Yet, Foumilayo is more than a great colleague, she is a good friend. I've hosted her and her father for dinner at my house. I served egg-drop soup and chicken fried rice. While it soon became obvious that they didn't particularly like the food, Pélé appreciated the hammock that I had hanging in my courtyard.

Recently, Foumilayo and I attended a four-day conference organized by Peace Corps in the south of the country. The meals served were a mix of Togolese and American cuisine, and one morning Foumilayo fell in love with pancakes. She asked me to teach how to make these cakes as soon as we've found some honey to serve with them.